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V is for VENICE [Your Ultimate Guide To The City Of Canals]

V is for VENICE [Your Ultimate Guide To The City Of Canals]

 ‘ To build a city where it is impossible to build a city is madness in itself, but to build one of the most elegant and grandest of cities is the madness of genius.  – Alexander Herzen. This is the ultimate guide to unique Venice, a place that truly defies the ordinary.

Nothing about Venice is ordinary, from the way this city was born to its millennia-long and controversial history to the way it disposes of its garbage nowadays to manage the millions of tourists setting foot here every year.

Venice, Italy, offers the best places to visit for travellers seeking authentic experiences beyond the crowded tourist spots. While most visitors flock to St. Mark’s Square and the Rialto Bridge, the true magic of Venice reveals itself in its lesser-known corners and local traditions.

Hidden gems await in neighbourhoods where Venetians actually live their daily lives. From the quiet canals of Castello to the artistic vibes of Dorsoduro, these areas showcase Venice’s rich history and culture without the overwhelming crowds. Additionally, the surrounding islands present unique opportunities to experience centuries-old crafts and traditions. This comprehensive guide highlights authentic experiences, secret spots, and practical tips that will transform your Venice adventure from an ordinary tourist visit into a truly memorable journey through one of Italy’s most fascinating cities.

Explore Venice’s Unique Neighbourhoods

Venice divides itself into six distinct sestieri (neighbourhoods), each with its own personality and charm. Exploring these diverse areas reveals the true character of the city beyond the postcard views. From bustling tourist centres to peaceful local quarters, these neighbourhoods offer the best places to visit in Venice, Italy, for travellers seeking authentic experiences.

San Marco: The heart of the city

The most famous of Venice’s districts, San Marco, pulses with energy around its eponymous square. Beyond the iconic St. Mark’s Basilica and Doge’s Palace lies a neighbourhood worth deeper exploration. Duck into the narrow calli (streets) behind the square to discover elegant boutiques and historic cafés like Caffè Florian, dating back to 1720. For a quieter experience, visit early morning before the crowds arrive. The hidden courtyard of Palazzo Grimani offers a peaceful respite from the bustle, while the Musical Instruments Museum showcases Venice’s rich cultural heritage.

Dorsoduro: Artistic and laid-back

South of the Grand Canal, Dorsoduro embodies Venice’s artistic spirit. Home to prestigious museums like the Gallerie dell’Accademia and the contemporary Peggy Guggenheim Collection, this neighbourhood attracts art lovers from around the world. However, the real charm lies in its authentic atmosphere. Campo Santa Margherita transforms from a morning market to a lively evening gathering spot where students from the nearby university mingle with locals. For spectacular sunset views, head to the Zattere promenade along the Giudecca Canal, where you’ll find fewer tourists and more Venetians enjoying evening passeggiata (strolls).

Cannaregio: Local life and Jewish Ghetto

In northern Venice, Cannaregio offers a glimpse into everyday Venetian life. This residential district houses the world’s first Jewish Ghetto, established in 1516. Visit the Jewish Museum and three surviving synagogues to understand this important chapter in Venice’s history. The main thoroughfare, Strada Nova, buzzes with shops and restaurants, yet just one street away, you’ll find quiet canals where laundry hangs from windows and children play in small campos. For an authentic meal, try one of the bàcari (wine bars) along Fondamenta della Misericordia, where locals gather for cicchetti (Venetian tapas) and spritz.

Castello: Quiet charm and gardens

Stretching from the tourist centre to the eastern edge of Venice, Castello transitions from busy to remarkably peaceful. The neighbourhood contains rare green spaces in this water-bound city, including the Giardini Pubblici, created by Napoleon and now home to the Venice Biennale pavilions. Via Garibaldi, unusually wide for Venice, features shops and cafés frequented by locals. Near the Arsenal, Venice’s historic shipyard, narrow streets reveal hidden gems, such as the Church of San Pietro di Castello, which was once Venice’s cathedral. The waterfront Riva degli Schiavoni offers spectacular lagoon views without the crowds found at San Marco.

Santa Croce and San Polo: Hidden gems and markets

These adjacent neighbourhoods west of the Grand Canal contain some of Venice’s most delightful hidden corners. San Polo houses the famous Rialto Market, where locals have shopped for fresh produce and seafood for centuries. Mornings here offer a vibrant glimpse into Venetian culinary traditions. Meanwhile, Santa Croce presents a less touristy face of Venice, with quiet squares like Campo San Giacomo dell’Orio providing authentic glimpses of local life. The Natural History Museum at Fondaco dei Turchi showcases Venice’s connection to the natural world, while small churches like San Giacomo di Rialto contain artistic masterpieces without the lines found at larger attractions.

Each neighbourhood contributes unique flavours to Venice’s cultural tapestry, making neighbourhood-hopping essential for travellers seeking to experience the full spectrum of this extraordinary city’s character.

Top Local Eats and Drinks You Shouldn’t Miss

Venetian cuisine stands as one of the most distinctive culinary traditions in Italy, deeply rooted in the city’s maritime history and local ingredients. Food in Venice tells stories of trade routes, cultural exchanges, and centuries-old traditions that continue to thrive in the city’s bacari, markets, and family-run establishments.

Cicchetti and wine bars

Experiencing cicchetti—Venice’s answer to Spanish tapas—offers one of the most authentic ways to enjoy the city’s food culture. These small bites typically cost €1-3 each and come in endless varieties. Some of the finest cicchetti bars (bacari) include All’Arco near the Rialto Market, where locals stand shoulder-to-shoulder enjoying baccalà mantecato (creamed salt cod) on polenta. Cantina Do Spade, dating back to 1448, serves exceptional sarde in saor (sweet and sour sardines)—a dish that exemplifies Venice’s spice trade history. For a truly local experience, visit Cantina Do Mori in San Polo, Venice’s oldest bacari, established in 1462.

When ordering, pair your cicchetti with an ombra (small glass of wine) or the popular Venetian Spritz—Aperol or Campari with prosecco and soda water. Many locals enjoy a “giro d’ombra” (wine tour) through several bacari in the early evening before dinner.

Seafood at Rialto Market

The Rialto Fish Market (Mercato del Pesce) has been the heart of Venetian seafood culture since 1097. Visit between 7:30-12:00 Tuesday through Saturday to watch locals select the freshest catches from the lagoon and Adriatic Sea. The vibrant displays showcase Venice’s deep connection to its surrounding waters.

Furthermore, restaurants surrounding the market offer the freshest seafood dishes in the city. Trattoria Antiche Carampane, hidden on a tiny alley near the market, serves spectacular seafood pasta and their famed “moeche” (soft-shell crabs) when in season. For the full experience, visit Osteria Al Pescador, where fishmongers who work in the market often eat their lunch—a testament to its quality and authenticity.

Where to find the best gelato

Venice’s gelaterias offer welcome relief during warm Italian days. Skip the tourist-trap establishments with mountains of brightly colored gelato and seek out artisanal spots instead. Gelateria Il Doge in Dorsoduro serves exceptional “Crema del Doge”—vanilla with candied orange and chocolate. Notably, Gelateria Nico on the Zattere promenade specialises in “gianduiotto”—a chocolate hazelnut block served floating in fresh whipped cream.

For innovative flavours, visit Alaska Gelateria in Santa Croce, where the owner, Carlo, creates seasonal varieties using organic ingredients, sometimes including unexpected herbs and spices that reflect Venice’s trading history. A proper gelato tour qualifies as one of the best places to visit in Venice, Italy, for food enthusiasts.

Authentic Venetian restaurants

Beyond cicchetti and seafood, traditional Venetian restaurants serve dishes you’ll rarely find elsewhere. Alle Testiere, a tiny 22-seat restaurant in Castello, offers a daily-changing menu based on the morning’s market finds—book weeks in advance. Osteria La Zucca near Campo San Giacomo dell’Orio specialises in vegetable dishes that showcase Venice’s agricultural connections to nearby mainland farms.

For classic Venetian cuisine, visit Antiche Figure near the train station for perfect risotto al nero di seppia (squid ink risotto) or Al Covo in Castello for their legendary seafood risotto. Many authentic restaurants close on Sundays and Mondays; consequently, planning ahead is essential.

Budget-friendly food spots locals love

Eating well in Venice doesn’t require emptying your wallet. Rosticceria Gislon near the Rialto serves exceptional mozzarella in carrozza (fried mozzarella sandwiches) and other takeaway items for under €5. Specifically, Dal Moro’s Fresh Pasta To Go offers made-to-order pasta in convenient takeaway boxes—perfect for an affordable lunch by a quiet canal.

For breakfast like a Venetian, skip sit-down cafés and stand at the counter of Pasticceria Tonolo in Dorsoduro for perfect cornetti and cappuccino at half the price. In fact, most bacari offer simple sandwiches called “tramezzini” for €2-3 that make excellent light lunches. Osteria Al Portego near Rialto serves hearty pasta dishes and cicchetti at prices that keep locals coming back regularly.

Must-See Attractions Beyond the Tourist Trail

Beyond the iconic landmarks, Venice harbours extraordinary treasures that remain largely undiscovered by typical tourists. These hidden gems offer deeper insights into the city’s rich history and authentic culture without the overwhelming crowds.

Scala Contarini del Bovolo

Tucked away in the San Marco district, this architectural marvel features a breathtaking multi-story spiral staircase that seems to emerge unexpectedly from the surrounding buildings. Built in 1499, this 26-meter-tall masterpiece blends Renaissance, Gothic, and Venetian-Byzantine architectural styles. The name “bovolo” means “snail” in Venetian dialect, perfectly describing its distinctive spiral shape. For just €9, visitors can climb the 80-step staircase to reach a stunning panoramic belvedere offering spectacular views of Venice’s rooftops, the domes of St. Mark’s Basilica, and the Grand Canal.

Campo dei Mori and its legends

In Cannaregio, the Campo dei Mori showcases four peculiar stone statues dating back to the late 13th century. These figures represent the Mastelli brothers—Rioba, Sandi, and Afani—Greek merchants who arrived from Morea (Peloponnese) in 1112. The most famous statue, Sior Rioba, stands at the corner wearing a distinctive turban added in the late 15th century. Legend claims that Saint Mary Magdalene herself turned these merchants to stone for their dishonest trading practices. Adding to their mystique, all statues mysteriously lost their noses over time, with Rioba’s replaced by an iron one during the 19th century.

Libreria Acqua Alta

Often called “the most beautiful bookstore in the world,” this charming shop ingeniously adapts to Venice’s flooding challenges. Since 2002, owner Luigi Frizzo has stored over 400,000 books in bathtubs, gondolas, and waterproof bins to protect them during “acqua alta” (high water). The shop’s most photographed feature is its staircase made entirely of damaged books, offering a unique canal view. Look for the resident cats, particularly Dominique, who keep watch over the literary treasures. The bookstore receives between 2,000-5,000 visitors on busy days; therefore, visit early morning or evening to avoid crowds.

Teatro La Fenice and classical concerts

This iconic opera house lives up to its name, “The Phoenix,” having risen from the ashes multiple times throughout its history. The 2024-2025 season features masterpieces like Verdi’s “Otello” conducted by Myung-Whun Chung and Puccini’s “Tosca” in a new production by Joan Anton Rechi. First-time visitors should consider attending Verdi’s “La Traviata,” presented in Robert Carsen’s intelligent production created for the theatre’s reopening after the 1996 fire. Beyond opera, the theatre hosts ballets and classical concerts, particularly the famous New Year’s concert.

Fondazione Querini Stampalia

This cultural institution, established in 1869, offers a microcosm of everything fascinating about Venice. The foundation houses a museum with Venetian Baroque and Rococo masterpieces, including works by Giovanni Bellini and Pietro Longhi. Particularly prized are the Arcadian landscapes and Longhi’s series on the “Seven Sacraments.” The garden, redesigned by architect Carlo Scarpa in the 1960s, features geometric fountains and serene lawns. Moreover, the elegant library remains open even on Sundays—the only one in Venice to do so—fulfilling Count Giovanni Querini’s 1868 wish to provide access when other libraries close.

Island Hopping: Explore the Lagoon Like a Local

Beyond the main city lies Venice’s spectacular lagoon, dotted with islands, each offering distinctive experiences for travellers seeking authentic local life. Regular vaporetti (water buses) make island exploration convenient yet remarkably rewarding.

Murano: Glassmaking heritage

Just a 10-minute boat ride from central Venice, Murano has been the epicentre of Venetian glassmaking since 1291, when authorities forced glassmakers to relocate from the main island to prevent fires 1. Unlike ordinary factory tours, Murano’s glass demonstrations showcase centuries-old techniques passed through generations. Watch master artisans transform molten glass into delicate works of art, from intricate vases to the island’s famous colourful beads. For deeper insight, visit the Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum), which displays the evolution of this precious craft. Indeed, Murano’s glass industry was once so vital that artisans were forbidden to leave the island without permission, under pain of death, to protect trade secrets 2.

Burano: Colourful houses and lace

Famous for houses painted in vibrant candy-colored hues, Burano presents arguably the most photogenic backdrop in the entire lagoon. Contrary to popular belief, these rainbow-painted homes weren’t just for aesthetics—fishermen originally painted them brightly to identify their homes when returning through thick lagoon fog 3. According to local tradition, residents must still request government permission before repainting their houses 3. Alongside this visual feast, Burano boasts a celebrated lace-making tradition dating to the 16th century. The intricate needlework was once so renowned that Leonardo da Vinci visited in 1481 to purchase a Burano lace cloth for Milan’s cathedral 4. The island’s Lace Museum showcases this delicate art form that brought worldwide fame.

Torcello: Venice’s ancient roots

Despite its current sparse population of only 10-12 residents, Torcello holds the distinction of being Venice’s birthplace. First settled in 452 AD by mainland refugees fleeing Attila the Hun, this once-thriving island boasted up to 20,000 inhabitants before malaria and the silting of waterways drove people away.

Today, visitors discover an atmospheric landscape dominated by the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, built in 639 and home to spectacular Byzantine mosaics including a striking Last Judgment. The ancient bell tower offers panoramic lagoon views, whereas the enigmatic “Attila’s Throne”—despite its name—likely served as a ceremonial seat for magistrates.

Giudecca: Peaceful escape with views

Although technically part of central Venice, Giudecca feels worlds apart despite being just a 3-minute vaporetto ride from the main city 6. Once characterised by elegant palazzos with gardens, then transformed into an industrial zone in the early 20th century, today’s Giudecca offers a quiet residential neighbourhood away from tourist crowds 6. Visit the striking white Palladian church of Il Redentore, commissioned in the 1580s after Venice survived a devastating plague 7. Every Thursday morning, the unique market run by female prisoners sells organic vegetables from their garden 8—an authentic local experience. Along the northern shore, cafés provide breathtaking panoramic views across to Dorsoduro and St. Mark’s, perfect for sunset aperitivo.

Getting Around Venice in a unique way

Navigating the floating city requires different strategies than typical urban exploration. Mastering Venice’s unique transportation options saves both money and time while enhancing your experience of this extraordinary destination.

Using the vaporetto system

The vaporetto (water bus) network serves as Venice’s public transportation backbone. These floating workhorses connect all major points throughout the six sestieri and surrounding islands. City centre lines 1 and 2 ply the Grand Canal, with Line 1 stopping at every stop (taking about 45 minutes between the train station and St. Mark’s) while Line 2 offers express service in approximately 30 minutes 9.

Single tickets cost €9.50, valid for 75 minutes after validation 9. For frequent riders, consider the more economical multi-day passes:

  • 1-day: €25
  • 2-day: €35
  • 3-day: €45
  • 7-day: €65 9

Purchase tickets beforehand at vaporetto stops, nearby tobacco shops, or newspaper kiosks to avoid additional fees for buying onboard 10. Most importantly, validate your ticket at the machines before boarding 11.

When to walk and when to ride

Venice’s compact size makes walking an excellent option—the journey from Santa Lucia railway station to Piazza San Marco takes merely 30 minutes on foot 9. Walking remains ideal for exploring narrow alleys and discovering hidden corners within neighbourhoods.

Comparatively, opt for vaporetti when crossing between distant sestieri, visiting outer islands like Murano and Burano, or when carrying luggage. Essentially, locals primarily walk and only use public transportation when absolutely necessary, such as reaching islands 10.

Tips for gondola and traghetto rides

Traditional gondola rides offer experiences rather than transportation. Standard rates (fixed by the city) run €80 for 30 minutes during daytime and €100 for evening rides 9. Split costs with up to 5 other passengers to make this iconic experience more affordable.

Alternatively, discover the traghetto—one of Venice’s best-kept transport secrets. These gondola ferries cross the Grand Canal at specific points for just €2 9, connecting neighbourhoods without requiring lengthy detours to the nearest bridge. Look for yellow signs with gondola symbols marking the traghetto stations at Santa Sofia, San Tomà, and Santa Maria del Giglio 12.

Avoiding tourist transport traps

Beware “free” boat rides to Murano glass factories, which typically involve aggressive sales pressure 13. For island visits, official vaporetti provide reliable scheduled service without obligations.

Though luxurious, water taxis charge €100-130 per ride 10—Consider this option only for groups of 8-10 people when the per-person cost becomes comparable to public transport.

Conclusion

Venice truly stands apart as a city where the authentic experience lies beyond the most photographed landmarks. Throughout this guide, we’ve ventured through distinctive neighbourhoods, each telling its own centuries-old stories away from the crowds. Additionally, we’ve explored local culinary traditions that reveal Venice’s maritime heritage through cicchetti bars and fresh seafood markets that locals have frequented for generations.

Undoubtedly, the hidden gems like Scala Contarini del Bovolo and the magical Libreria Acqua Alta offer more memorable experiences than waiting in long lines at mainstream attractions. Meanwhile, the surrounding islands present entirely different facets of Venetian culture—from Murano’s glassmaking legacy to Burano’s vibrant colors and Torcello’s ancient beginnings.

Rather than rushing between major sights, consider how locals navigate their floating city. Sometimes walking delivers the most rewarding discoveries down narrow calli, while vaporetti efficiently connect you to distant sestieri. Above all, patience rewards the Venice traveller—this city reveals its true character to those willing to wander without rigid schedules.

The best places to visit in Venice, Italy, aren’t always marked on tourist maps. Instead, they emerge when you allow yourself to get pleasantly lost, perhaps finding a quiet campo where children play or a tiny bacaro serving perfect cicchetti. After all, Venice isn’t simply a collection of famous landmarks but a living, breathing community with traditions that have endured for over a millennium. Your most treasured memories will likely come from these authentic moments when you experience the city as Venetians do—with curiosity, appreciation, and the understanding that sometimes the journey itself becomes the destination.

References

[1] – https://www.britannica.com/place/Burano
[2] – https://www.througheternity.com/en/blog/venice-travel-guide/best-day-trips-from-venice.html
[3] – https://italoamericano.org/why-are-buranos-houses-so-colorful/
[4] – https://www.europeanwaterways.com/blog/venetian-lagoon-and-its-islands-guide/
[5] – https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torcello
[6] – https://www.theveniceinsider.com/giudecca-a-peaceful-island-with-10-remarkable-buildings/
[7] – https://silvertraveladvisor.com/reviews/giudecca-venice-2/
[8] – https://www.monicacesarato.com/blog/giudecca-island-or-where-to-find-peace-in-venice/
[9] – https://www.lonelyplanet.com/articles/getting-around-venice
[10] – https://veneziaautentica.com/how-move-around-venice-italy/
[11] – https://www.efultimatebreak.com/blog/venice-public-transportation
[12] – https://www.onelilnomad.com/blog/all-you-need-to-know-to-enjoy-venice-like-a-local
[13] – https://www.eatingeurope.com/blog/10-ways-to-avoid-getting-ripped-off-in-venice/

Venice is a city of contrasts—between the grand historical past and the challenges of modern tourism, between crowded tourist hubs and tranquil hidden corners. Whether you’re seeking cultural immersion, culinary delights, or simply a magical place to get lost in, Venice promises a journey like no other.

Pack comfortable shoes, prepare for an adventure on water, and let the timeless beauty of Venice transform your travel experience.

The Pearl of the Ionian Islands – How to Make the Most of Your Visit to Corfu

The Pearl of the Ionian Islands – How to Make the Most of Your Visit to Corfu

‘Greece is the country that offers you the discovery of yourself ‘ — Lawrence Durrell.

Corfu is unique in so many ways. Unique amongst the Mediterranean islands, and amongst the Greek islands.

Due to its geo-location, this island is unlike other Greek islands. Corfu Island, the big sister of the Ionian Islands, as the locals like to call it, will make you fall in love with Greek culture, delicious food, and the sapphire sea. 

The Island is located on the Northwest coast of Greece in the Ionian Sea, close to the coast of Italy. 

While it can be extremely arid in summer, Corfu has lush rainforests thanks to abundant winter rainfall. Winter is mostly cloudy and windy. Corfu has mountains and pine forests. 

Altogether, the Ionian Archipelago has a Mediterranean climate with dry summers (30 degrees Celsius) and mild winters (average temp. of 14 degrees Celsius).

The main Ionian islands are

  1. Kerkyra – CORFU
  2. Paxi – PAXOS
  3. Lefkada – LEFKAS
  4. Ithaki – ITHAKA
  5. Kefalonia – KEFALONIA
  6. Zakinthos – ZANTE
  7. Kythira – CYTHERA

Due to its location again, Corfu played a significant role in Greece’s history from the very beginning (Pre-Antiquity). Corfu appears in the writings of Thucydides, 5th century BCE, Peloponnesian War, alongside Athens and Corinth. From the dawn of history to the present day, Corfu has played a catalytic role in the long and rich history of Hellenism.

More recently, unlike other Greek islands, Corfu was one of the very few that never fell under Ottoman oppression. While it’s been under Venetians, the French and British, the Ottomans never ruled; they played a major role in pulling the Greeks towards the West, ideologically and culturally.

The city of Kerkyra became home to the first Greek University  – the Ionian Academy, the first Philharmonic Orchestra and the first School of Fine Arts.

What makes Corfu the pearl of the Ionian Islands?

I’m well aware that most of the Greek Islands have unparalleled beauty, some ranking very high amongst the most beautiful and popular in the World, and yet Corfu somehow manages to dazzle its visitors, making them return again and again.

Let’s see what makes Corfu the pearl of the Ionian Islands?

  • Corfu’s exceptional natural beauty. Sapphire sea as far as your eyes can see, hundreds of miles of impressive coastline shaped by the natural elements without human intervention, excellent weather all year round and a geographical location offering easy access by plane – Ioannis Kapodistrias International Airport and by boat from continental Greece, Italy and Albania.
  • History overload, the Old Town Fortress designed during the 17th-18th century and of course, hundreds of picturesque villages as old as time.
  • Architecture at its finest, because of the historical richness from the dawn of civilisation to modern times, Corfu never ceases to amaze its visitors. Kerkyra Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
  • When it comes to arts and culture, Corfu comes at the top again with its long tradition in music, and its internationally recognised Philharmonic Orchestra and choirs. 
  • The Church of St Spyridon, the island’s patron saint. In particular, the Easter celebrations are impressive.
  • several museums worth visiting. Banknote Museum, Byzantine Museum, Archaeological Museum and the Museum of Dionysios Solomos – Greece’s national poet.
  • Mouse Island has become a symbol for Corfu. Once you’ve seen this tiny island, home to the church of Panagia Vlacherna, you’ll recognise it anywhere, because it’s the most photographed spot in Corfu, the perfect postcard otherwise.
  • a handful of places that once belonged to big names in history :
  • Elisabeth, the Empress of Austria (aka Sisi) used to escape to Corfu, especially after she lost her son. The Palace Achilleion was built for her on the island. After Sisi’s assassination in 1898, the Palace Achillion was bought by Germany’s Kaiser Wilhelm II as his summer residence.
  • Prince Philip, the Duke of Edinburgh, was born on the island in Mon Repos Palace, built by the British Commissioner Adams as a gift to his Corfiot wife.

An Odyssey to Corfu

There are quite a few movies filmed in Corfu, but the British series The Durrells is an unconventional and heartwarming odyssey to the beloved Ionian island.

The Netflix series The Durrells is inspired by the books The Corfu Trilogy and My Family and Other Animals by Gerald Durrell, and The Durrells of Corfu by Michael Haag.

“The Corfu Trilogy” by Gerald Durrell offers a delightful escape into the sun-drenched island of Corfu, where the young naturalist and his eccentric family embark on a series of enchanting adventures that celebrate the splendour of nature and the rich tapestry of human life. With wit and warmth, Durrell paints an irresistible portrait of their Mediterranean paradise where curious animals, quirky locals, and a sprawling menagerie of family antics come vibrantly to life.

As you turn the pages of this uplifting memoir, you’ll be transported into a world brimming with laughter, wonder, and the simple joy of exploration, making it impossible not to fall in love with the Durrells’ unconventional and heartwarming odyssey.

“The Durrells of Corfu” by Michael Haag sweeps readers into the enchanting world of a British family whose eccentricities and adventures in the sun-drenched Greek island of Corfu are as compelling as they are endearing. Drawing from both the beloved writings of Gerald Durrell and a treasure trove of family letters and personal anecdotes, Haag paints a vivid portrait of a family whose love for nature, humour, and each other brought them to a place where they could truly thrive. Readers will be charmed by the Durrells’ vivid personalities and their profound connection to Corfu’s breathtaking landscapes, as they delve into an intimate and spirited exploration of their unforgettable sojourn.

The TV show “The Durrells “ aired in 2016, and it was shot in Corfu.  

The entire plot is built around the Durrell family relocating to the sunny island. Each one of the five main characters and Roger (the dog) navigates their own challenges and adventures, trying to find their place amongst the locals, both welcoming and hostile.

During the 4 seasons, some of the children will try to ‘’escape’’ soul searching, but in the end, they all find their way back to Corfu. The bittersweet (mostly bitter) series finale captures the Durrells being forced to say their farewell to their friends and their beloved island in the dawn of the Second World War.

Louisa Durrell makes the difficult decision to move her family back to England in the rise of nationalism amongst the European nations, and after receiving news that her cousin Basil was murdered on his way back to England, ‘’just for being English’’

So what makes this show so unique and entertaining?

  • Because the Netflix series is based on naturalist Gerald Durrell’s novel The Corfu Trilogy, the raw natural beauty of the island is a central feature. The characters are constantly marvelled by the diversity of wildlife and the paradise they find themselves in. 
  • British humour at its finest, Louisa in particular.
  • The clash of the two countries and cultures, illustrated with the subtle teasing and historical references, is unmatched.

“I love the English, they’re the first at everything… and the last to leave”, Spiro

  • Locals played by Greeks for authenticity,
  • The family life is kept at the core of the plot. The British family of the ’30s is depicted during the four seasons, the good, the bad, the ugly, but most importantly, the beauty of sharing every moment with your loved ones is what makes life worth living.

Top 6 things you must try while in Corfu

Corfu Town it’s a blast of little local markets, coffee places, pubs, bars and restaurants, not to forget the high street merchandisers of clothes, jewellery, makeup, tech and food.

1. The old Fortress of the City

In case you get lost in Corfu Town, somehow you will end up at the Old Fortress. There’s no need for a map, you will get there with the flow. You can also find yourself in this situation several times before realising what is happening, it’s hilarious, I promise! 

There is no need to get into historical debates and details about the origin of this marvellous fortress. All it is worth knowing is that over the centuries the Island belonged to the Republic of Venice, France, the United Kingdom and finally to modern Greece, because you’re able to see a mixture of styles and influences on the Fortress’s architecture. A ‘little younger’ but dating from the same 16th century, it’s the new Fortress of Corfu that is worth visiting. 

Today, this part of the city offers spectacular views, great museums, endless walking paths and parks, a variety of traditional restaurants, cold beer and iced coffee. You can easily spend a day enjoying the beauties of both Fortresses of Corfu Town.

For this sort of experience, you don’t need to walk on a specific side of the island. Once you’ve left the old Fortress, everyone will try to sell you something. But every single little narrow street of Corfu town will host a few souvenir shops.

I have only one piece of advice for you: Do not buy from the first shop in your way, but rather explore the area and do your souvenir shopping on your last day.

2. Best beaches and villages

  • Halikounas beach is about 15 miles south of Corfu town, and don’t get scared when you get there. It looks like a desert. It is a huge wild beach and it lacks any kind of tourist facilities.

If you’re a fan of fancy sunbeds, umbrellas and loud music, this beach is not for you. Go find one anywhere on the island, but if you don’t mind carrying your beach rug, towels and books with you, by all means, spend a day on Halikounas Beach. I promise it’s just going to be you, probably another few lucky folks, the golden sand and unreal, endless blue water. 

  • Best beaches to try near Corfu Town:
  • Anemomylos beach
  • Mon Repos, near the palace with the same name
  • Vido beach
  • Dasia is the former residence of Merlin, the agriculturist who introduced the well-known Japanese Kumquat citrus in Greece. Nowadays, Corfu is world-renowned for its kumquat liquor and jam, a must-try when you visit. Don’t miss Dasia beach.
  • Pelekas beach is probably the best spot in Corfu to watch the sunset, and that’s an expert’s opinion
  • Kouloura Bay and the village make a perfect postcard shot
  • Sidari
  • Mesongi
  • Agios Matthaios
  • Agios Georgios
  • Lefkimmi
  • Issos
  • Kerassia
  • Kalami
  • Barbati
  • Dafnilas
  • Gouvia
  • Benitses
  • Mytiotissa
  • Achavari
  • Kontogialos
  • Ermones is the beach from the Myth of Odysseus (Ulysses)
  • Glyfada
  • Kassiopi

3. Scuba diving and marine life

One thing to try, and I highly recommend, is scuba diving. You will never be able to experience the undersea world better than on a Greek Island.

For your peace of mind, there are no deadly poisonous jellyfish or sharks that could eat you alive. There are better places to experience scuba diving, nothing compares to famous Micronesia, Yongola (Australia), Hawaii or Belize, but since we are on the old continent, the Greek undersea world will stay on top of the list. 

4. Paxo and Antipaxo day trip

Paxi and Antipaxi are two small, stunning Greek islands located in the Ionian Sea, south of Corfu. They are famous for their crystal-clear waters, dramatic coastlines, olive groves, and a laid-back atmosphere, making them popular with travellers looking to avoid the crowds of more tourist-heavy Greek islands.

How to get there?

  • To Paxi: No airport, access is by boat or ferry from Corfu, or mainland ports like Igoumenitsa.
  • To Antipaxi: Small boats, water taxis, or organised tours from Paxi (mostly from Gaios).

Paxi (Paxos)

  • Main Town: Gaios – a picturesque harbour town with Venetian architecture.
  • Size: About 25 km² (9.7 sq mi)
  • Known For:
    • Beautiful beaches (pebbled and hidden coves)
    • Sea caves and turquoise waters
    • Olive oil production (over 250,000 olive trees)
    • Charming villages: Lakka and Loggos
  • Activities:
    • Boating around the island
    • Exploring sea caves on the west coast
    • Dining in seaside tavernas
    • Visiting old churches and windmills

Antipaxi (Antipaxos)

  • Located: Just 3 km south of Paxi – accessible by boat in 15–20 minutes.
  • Size: About 5 km² (1.9 sq mi)
  • Known For:
    • Voutoumi and Vrika beaches – often ranked among the most beautiful in Greece
    • Crystal-clear, Caribbean-like waters
    • Local vineyards – Antipaxi produces small quantities of red wine
  • Activities:
    • Swimming and snorkelling
    • Beach picnics
    • Exploring by small boat or kayak

5.  Nightlife

Kavos village is located about 27 miles from Corfu town on the Southern coast of the island, and it’s famous for its loud parties. It’s the place that doesn’t sleep in the summer and is regarded as the top destination for British tourists. It’s not the place you go to try the local cuisine or the best beach, nor is it famous for its luxury family-friendly hotels or spas, but the place you go to party hard. You go there for the best pool gatherings, exquisite cocktails, foam parties, helium balloons, and the rest.

Tip: You should never accept a drink or smoke from anyone in Kavos. It is dangerous and easy to take some serious drugs during the night in Kavos. 

Other than Kavos, you will find a few bars in every single village of the island. We particularly loved 54 Dreamy Nights in Corfu town, plus Quatro Summer and Sea One in Agios Georgios South. They all have friendly staff, high-class customer service, delicious drinks, affordable prices and a great location.

In case you don’t wanna party hard, you could use a few drinks after a long, hot day, go to Agios Gordis village and ask about The Lemon Tree cocktail bar. This bar it’s not easy to find because the locals like to keep it that way. The atmosphere it’s chill and relaxed, laced with sisha aromas and exquisite drinks and cocktails for every taste. Since it’s a family business owned by 4 siblings, the customer service it’s exceptional. 

Funny fact: They actually have a lemon tree growing in their open-air bar, so they will use fresh lemons for your drinks, so the name is well worth.

When they ‘kick you out’ at 6 in the morning, you just need to walk down a few streets and you will end up on the beach. Enjoy the sunrise!

No, this is not a paid review. 

6. Hikes in Corfu

    • Sidari to Cape Drastis for a picturesque coastal view, approximately 15 miles
    • From the fishing village of Kassiopi to Pantokratoras (911 m alt.), the tallest peak on the island, for a panoramic view of not just the entire island but also the coast of Albania and on a clear sky day, 120 miles across the sea, the coast of Italy.
    • Paleokastritsa and its surroundings. The view from the coast’s peaks is unreal. Crystal clear shallow water, golden beaches and lush green vegetation everywhere, despite the 26 degrees C average temperatures.

    Legend has it that the bay of Paleokastritsa is the place where Odysseus’s ship is destroyed by Poseidon, and he washes ashore on Phaeacia, landing near Nausicaa and her maids. Nausicaa’s actions set in motion the events that will eventually lead to Odysseus’s return home. 

    The ideal time for hiking in Corfu is April-May and October-November, to avoid the scorching summer temperatures. 

    Conclusion

    Time and time again, Corfu has been chosen by historic personalities for various events, and that was no coincidence. This island represents the quintessence of Greek culture and civilisation.

    Corfu is not the biggest island, or the busiest, nor is it the most popular or the most expensive of the Greek destinations, but it is the most exquisite of all; it’s beautiful by being the most authentic. History has pulled Corfu towards the West, and in return, the pearl of the Ionian islands, with its people, has played a catalytic role in defining the modern Greek culture as we know it, built on the richest history of all.

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